| When it comes to air conditioners,
proper sizing, selection, installation, maintenance, and correct use are keys to cost-effective
operation and lower cooling costs.
Types of Air Conditioners
The basic types of air conditioners are room air conditioners
and central air conditioners.
Room Air Conditioners
Room air conditioners cool rooms rather than the entire home.
If they provide cooling only where they're needed, room air conditioners are less expensive
to operate than central units, even though their efficiency is generally lower than that
of central air conditioners.
Smaller room air conditioners (i.e., those drawing less than
7.5 amps of electricity) can be plugged into any 15- or 20-amp, 115-volt household circuit
that is not shared with any other major appliances. Larger room air conditioners (i.e.,
those drawing more than 7.5 amps) need their own dedicated 115-volt circuit. The largest
models require a dedicated 230-volt circuit.
Central Air Conditioners
Central air conditioners circulate cool air through a system
of supply and return ducts. Supply ducts and registers (i.e., openings in the walls, floors,
or ceilings covered by grills) carry cooled air from the air conditioner to the home.
This cooled air becomes warmer as it circulates through the home; then it flows back to
the central air conditioner through return ducts and registers. A central air conditioner
is either a split-system unit or a packaged unit.
Buying a New Air Conditioner
Today's best air conditioners use 30% to 50% less energy to
produce the same amount of cooling as air conditioners made in the mid 1970s. Even if
your air conditioner is only 10 years old, you may save 20% to 40% of your cooling energy
costs by replacing it with a newer, more efficient model.
Proper Sizing
A larger-than-needed air conditioner will not provide the best
cooling. In fact, running a smaller unit for a longer time will use less energy to completely
condition a room than running a larger unit for a shorter time. Buying an oversized air
conditioner is a bad idea for the following reasons:
- It costs more to buy a larger air conditioner than is needed.
- The larger-than-needed air conditioner cycles on and off more frequently,
reducing its efficiency. Frequent cycling makes indoor temperatures
fluctuate more and results in a less comfortable environment.
- Frequent cycling also inhibits moisture removal. On humid days, removing
moisture is essential for acceptable levels of comfort.
- The more frequent cycling also wears out the compressor and electrical
parts more rapidly.
- A larger-than-needed air conditioner uses more electricity and therefore
costs more to operate.
For the installation of a central air conditioner,
your contractor should use industry approved standards for calculating
the size of the new unit. The U.S.
Department of Energy Web site provides consumers with information
about the methods used in making these calculations.
Sizing Guidelines for Room Air Conditioners
To determine the proper size of a new room air conditioner, calculate the
square footage of the area to be cooled by multiplying the length of the
room in feet by the width of the room in feet. Using the chart below,
match the size of the area to be cooled with the air conditioner capacity
that's right for your situation.
Up to 200 |
5,000 |
5,000 |
5,000 |
200 to 250 |
5,000 |
6,000 |
7,500 |
250 to 300 |
5,000 |
7,000 |
9,000 |
300 to 350 |
5,200 |
8,000 |
10,500 |
350 to 400 |
6,000 |
9,000 |
12,000 |
400 to 450 |
6,500 |
10,500 |
13,800 |
450 to 500 |
7,800 |
11,500 |
15,000 |
500 to 550 |
8,200 |
12,600 |
16,000 |
550 to 600 |
9,000 |
13,800 |
18,000 |
| Low. Room is shaded by trees, has
low-e windows, windows are not south-facing, above average building
tightness, or below average occupancy. |
| Average. Room is partially shaded
by trees, may have low-e windows, some windows are south facing,
average building tightness or average occupancy levels. |
| High. Room is in full sun, does not
have low-e windows, windows are south-facing, below average building
tightness, or above average occupancy. |
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Installation
- Install your air conditioner on the north, east or best-shaded side of your house.
- Make sure the window area around your air conditioner is properly sealed to reduce
cold air loss.
- Insulate the attic or building envelope of your house to reduce cooling and heating
costs.
- Inspect your attic ventilation to make sure that soffit, ridge or gable vents are
unobstructed and can remove excess heat and moisture in your attic.
Operation
- Set the thermostat on your central air conditioner at the highest temperature consistent
with your comfort and health requirements.
- Install a timer or clock thermostat on your air conditioner. Program your unit to
run just before you arrive home rather than having it run all day.

- Delay cooking, baking and other activities that produce heat and humidity until the
cooler times of the day or night.
- Use a portable or ceiling fan to circulate the pre-cooled air in your air-conditioned
home.
- In very humid weather, adjust your cooling system's fan speed to a low setting.
- As the sun moves from east to west, pull draperies and shades on windows to block
out the heat.
- Avoid cooling rooms that aren't used or occupied.
- Keep shrubbery away from your air conditioner since blocked vents reduce your unit's
ability to exhaust air.
- Move furniture, plants and draperies away from the front grille intake section and
top air discharge section of your window air conditioner.
- Don't run your unit when the outdoor temperature is below 70 degrees. You'll not only
waste money, you'll also run the risk of causing premature compressor failure.
Maintenance
- Have a qualified technician service your air conditioner annually and have the following
checked: proper refrigerant charging, condenser coils, evaporator, fan blades, fan
motors and filter.
- Check, clean or replace the filter in your air conditioner at least once a month.
- Reduce cold air loss to a minimum by insulating or sealing leaky cooling ducts.
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